Lectura din dimineata de weekend

Nu pot sa nu va recomand astazi o carte. Fabuloasa, stupefianta chiar, va va lasa cu hohote de ras, poate cu rasturnari de valori si mici momente de revelatie. „La limita vulgaritatii”, publicata de editura Nemira,  este ceea ce ar trebui sa citim toate ca sa intelegem felul in care „talia joasa” a jeansilor a tras bunul gust „in jos”, de ce asociem corect cizmele albe si blugii super-mulati cu periferia, de ce ne ingretoseaza etalarea de funduri si sutiene push-ups, de ce instinctul de turma („hai sa ne imbracam toate cum am vazut pe un blog!”) este tot o manifestare a vulgaritatii.

Asadar astazi, cand ploua marunt si Bucurestiul e gri, nu deschideti televizorul, nu rasfoiti nici un Vogue. In schimb, cititi ceva bun.

„Ca o coincidenta, slabirea curelei de la pantaloni e acompaniata de o promovare considerabila a cizmelor, iar cele care se poarta sunt ecoul celor care urmeaza sa apara. Alunecarea blugilor ultramulati, stretch slim, in cizme tot mai mulate, desenate pe pulpe, alunecand pe glezne – iata rezultatul plebiscitului. Dar sa iti bagi blugii intr-o pereche de cizme este vulgar, in sensul ca ele nu mai atrag privirea catre glezne, ci catre solduri. Ele captiveaza privirea si o mana catre fese si sex. In celebra fotografie a lui Yves Saint Laurent pozand nud, purtand doar o pereche de ochelari, privirea lui atragea privirile.

Vulgaritatea e pe buna dreptate o chestiune de privire si de look. Cizmele trimit un pic cu gandul la grajduri, la solduri, la balegar. Cizmele sunt intotdeauna o invitatie la o palma peste fese, cu tupeu.[…]

Moda este cruda chiar din aceasta cauza. Fiindca daca cizmele scumpe produc o schimbare, deturnand privirea dinspre solduri spre pretul incaltamintei si al celei care o poarta, cizmele de proasta calitate, din plastic, din vinilin, accentueaza efectul de instinct de turma al „victimei fashion”. In loc sa isi afirme stilul, femeia fara prea multe resurse materiale este redusa la o maimutarire a revistelor.”

Iar daca tot a venit vorba de educare stilistica, am deschis inscrierile la „Fii propria ta stilista”, editia de toamna 2013: cursul se va organiza in weekendul 26-27 octombrie, sunt disponibile doar 15 locuri. Pentru informatii complete (agenda de curs, orar, pret, locatie) si inscrieri, imi puteti scrie la office(at)imagematters(punct)ro.

And now, let’s do some reading…

Arnaud de Lummen awakens vintage luxury brands from their slumber – “Arnaud de Lummen, 36, has spent the past few years buying up the intellectual property and trademark rights to Mainbocher, the house that invented the strapless bodice and designed Wallis Simpson’s wedding dress, but which closed its doors in 1971 – as well as the rights to about 15 other classic brands, with the intention of reviving the names and selling them on.” In Financial Times.

The layered look – „A sweater is the perfect vehicle around which one can create a versatile, layered silhouette for fall—which can then be melded into every aspect of one’s wardrobe.” In Wall Street Journal.

Louis Vuitton shops for even richer customers – “Louis Vuitton is raising its focus somewhat from the really affluent to the really, really affluent. The Paris-based conglomerate of fabulous and fussy things is launching a new line of very high-end leather handbags and accessories to complement its existing products, according to Women’s Wear Daily. The strategy raises the question: just how much more opulent can LVMH get?” In Business Week.

Is there a future for Fashion Week? – „Whereas the Olympics are a high-risk, quick hit that could end in international ignominy, fashion weeks are born slowly, cumulatively creating the impression of a modern, vibrant, forward-looking, culturally and creatively open city.” In The Telegraph.

Paris doesn’t need a sideshow – “None of the big names on the bill for the opening of the Paris spring shows is French. There’s Jun Takahashi of Undercover (Tokyo), Alexander Wang of Balenciaga (New York) and Dries Van Noten (Antwerp). Rick Owens has lived in Paris for years, but we Americans still claim him as a California guy. And it’s funny: nobody whines about the circus atmosphere, as they do in New York, or the business-as-usual humdrum of Milan. It’s all fashion here and, so far, it’s all pretty exciting.” In NY Times.

It’s all in your hands – „The top-handle bag is being called the ‘new clutch’. It has something special about it – it evokes memories of a kinder, less harried, gentler, more ladylike time.” In Financial Times.

Diversity, dichotomy and divisive dressing: that’s what Paris fashion Week is about – “Opposites attract in Paris. Or at least they clash on the fashion week schedule. Dries Van Noten, Gareth Pugh and Marco Zanini’s Rochas make unlikely bedfellows. They flung us far, physically (across rush-hour Paris) and ideologically, showing three completely opposing views of woman for spring/summer 2014.” In The Independent.

The Investment dresser: dangly earrings – „I don’t think I’ve ever regretted spending on earrings. I still cherish pairs that date back 20 years. Perhaps because, unlike a dress or a skirt, once they’re on, you only see them when you look in the mirror, so they don’t have as much opportunity to bore you witless.” In The Telegraph.