Lectura din dimineata de weekend
„One of the most perplexing aspects of fashion is its preoccupation with change, and hence with time. Its mutability is the point. Even those who take (or claim to take) no particular interest in clothes will, by accident or passivity, nonetheless go with the fashion flow. […] We can date old photographs by what people wore, how they styled their hair, the contours with which the women drew their mouths. If we were to propel ourselves back to the 1920s we would notice at once that there were only three available shades of lipstick, and only one style of hat, the cloche. Only the elderly, those resistant to the new silhouette, would appear to have a waist.
Fashion is all tied up with modernity, for fashion is always about what is now, of the moment. Even when it raids the past for influences, it updates, it never simply copies. Our selves in clothes are in the process of being and becoming. We dress for our lifelong journey through time, the transformation of the self, a recognition that we are in thrall to the ticking clock. Nothing more cruelly reveals the business of our ageing flesh than sticking to the same clothing, make-up and hairstyles for the whole of our life. And nothing reveals the passage of time more decisively than looking back at the clothes we were once able to wear, the size of them, the amount of flesh we self-confidently allowed them to reveal.”
Dupa un moment de pauza, de gandire, de nostalgie, hai sa revenim in prezent. Sa furam o jumatate de ora frivola treburilor din aceasta dimineata ca sa citim, despre lumea modei.
The Fall Fashion Forecast – „Trends once lasted a whole season; now, you are lucky if they lasts six weeks. So early does the proliferation of the next season’s trends start that they begin to infiltrate the trends of the last season—cannibalizing themselves and acting as spoilers for the coming shopping months. Worst of all, you are likely to see at least 10 people wearing something similar before you even manage to get it out of the wardrobe.” In Wall Street Journal.
Smasual: how to dress for the last days of summer – „Smasual is the holy grail for those among us who are required to do dress-down Fridays, theater premieres (non-red carpet), midseason dressing, drinks parties (not cocktails), parent-teacher evenings, meet-the-parents evenings (his or hers), second dates, second interviews, third weddings, the christening of fourth borns, retirement soirees and summer funerals.” In Wall Street Journal.
How to design a catwalk show – “Fashion shows are extremely costly endeavours, often running up bills in the hundreds of thousands, thanks to high-spec lighting rigs, offbeat and exclusive venues, and of course, the famous faces not only on the runway but also in the front row.” In The Independent.
As women lighten up, men follow suit on NY runway – “The perennial poor relation of women’s high fashion, menswear is nonetheless gaining momentum, as well as market share, in the high-stakes retail business, analysts say. Men’s interest in clothing and personal style is growing and they continue to move toward shopping for themselves, they say.” Pe Reuters.
Picks from Net-a-Porter’s head buyer – „Goodbye, sundress. Hello, sweater. Net-a-Porter’s stylish head buyer breaks down her favorite pieces and trends for the season ahead.” In Wall Street Journal.
Paul Smith: still the best of British – “‘Quirky and cool’ work well to encapsulate his output, from his first boutique in Nottingham in 1970 selling standard shirts with colourful stitching around the buttonholes, to a business empire that today stretches to 75 countries, with a turnover of £400 million.” In The Telegraph.
Who am I wearing? Funny you should ask – “Was it only a couple of years ago that these showily outfitted swans — stylists, bloggers, fashion editors and style-struck students — click-clacked on the pavements, showing off a mash-up of vintage clothes, fast fashion and high-end labels in what used to be seen as a commerce-free zone? Today many of them are Web icons, trotting out their finery for scores of fans.” In NY Times.
The magic of fashion – „Lanvin designer, Alber Elbaz, offers his touching take on why he will forever believe in the transformative magic of fashion.” In Wall Street Journal.
Metallics, florals and futuristic edge rock London Fashion Week – “Rainbow colored metallics, abstract prints and edgy florals sashayed down the runway on day four of London Fashion Week, which featured a star-studded line-up of designers from Peter Pilotto to Christopher Kane and Burberry’s Christopher Bailey.” Pe Reuters
Fancy bests Pinterest again – “In his next step to dominate the social universe, Joseph Einhorn has added a gift-giving platform to Fancy. The function enables users to create a gift, invite others to contribute, and have the present sent directly to the recipient.” In Forbes.
Sporty? It’s the Olympics, stupid? – “This year has been a game changer in British attitudes toward sports, leaving behind the typical ironic and laconic talk about being ‘good losers’ and instead rejoicing in gold medal glory. So it is with fashion. While New York designers appear to be moving away from their American sportswear roots, the London summer 2013 collections are embracing dynamic dressing.” In International Herald Tribune.
Beyond the red carpet, Gucci’s movie moves – „At the Venice Film Festival this week, while other fashion brands just dress stars for the red carpet, Gucci is positioning itself for a bigger role in films.” In Wall Street Journal.