Lectura din dimineata de weekend
„The clothes you put on do not instantly make you the character you want to be. Clothes are a lifelong journey into aquiring an identity, an identity deliberately formulated, but also made by accident. You try on a tweed jacket and understand that is has connected with the part of yourself you scarcely knew about, which would like to go for a walk along a country road, with dogs. Or you put on a dress and discover in you the capacity to be quite lah-di-dah. And indeed, all cross-dressing is a means by which we can give expression to those secret selves which lie concealed beneath our obvious appearance; who people believe us to be but, in our heart of hearts, we aren’t. Or not completely.
[…] And I sort of understood as a child that being a woman was about dressing u, that these were costumes, and indeed an outfit would be called „a costume”. A dress was a frock or a gown. A suit was an ensemble. Clothes were not what you wore to be comfortable: they were how you built your femininity.”
What your brand can learn from Anna Wintour – “When you think of the fashion industry, leggy models, fast and fickle trends, and the latest ‘it’ bag may come to mind. But when you look closely at the business of fashion (after all, it is an industry), you see that one of its leading icons uses basic branding principles to engage her consumers in innovative ways…” Pe London Associates.
Giorgio Armani courts China – “‘Are you responsible, compassionate, reliable, honest, pessimistic and anxious?’ Giorgio Armani’s ice blue eyes lock onto mine. Who dares ask fashion’s last emperor – his kingdom resolutely independent from the conglomerates that dominate the global luxury landscape – about his personal character?” Pe American FinancialReview.
Drawn to HisShining Light – “Although Mr. Lopez’s name may mean little today, at the time he was among the most celebrated talents in fashion, a virtuosic illustrator whose drawings — in ad campaigns for Valentino and Missoni, published in the predictable fashion bibles and in portfolios commissioned by men’s magazines — were like semaphores beckoning strangers to enter his glamorous sphere.” In NY Times.
Underwear: the next big thing in smalls – “For a lingerie brand that has built a worldwide reputation by flaunting (and boosting and covering in rhinestones) the assets of some of the world’s top models, the exterior of the new Victoria’s Secret flagship store in London is somewhat demure.” In The Independent
Expanding her efforts to be role model – “More than just a pretty face, Ms. Rocha is one of the few models who has become known by just her first name. At a moment when the fashion industry has increasingly marginalized models — to anonymous, size 0 waifs, a life span of three seasons… she has emerged as the model’s liberator.” In NY Times.
The frock star: Roksanda Ilincic – “Roksanda Ilincic is the undisputed queen of modern glamour. But on this hot, still August afternoon in London, it’s hard to see how she managed it.” In The Telegraph.
Jet set for the future – „Retro space-age silhouettes from the 1960s art crowd combined with the jet-set minimalism of glam air stewardesses from the early 1970s. Think pop-art colour blocking, clean architectural lines, above-the-knee hemlines and metallic detailing. ” In Financial Times.
Mature markets – “‘Attitudes seem to be slowly changing, as blogs such as Advanced Style, The Women’s Room, and That’s Not My Age have highlighted the fact that growing older does not mean women lose interest in fashion and style,’ says British trend forecaster Jane Kellock, founder of The Women’s Room.” In Financial Times.
Social media’s issue: does it drive sales? – “At this point, observers say, few brands, if any, are seeing significant sales result from their postings on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest and other sites. Social media hasn’t been about driving transactions; it has been about building brand awareness and a “community” that will be devoted to a brand and, thus, buy it.” In WWD.
Diamonds and satin bring Tolstoy to life – „Anyone inspired to channel some of the film’s style in their own wardrobe needn’t go back in time by 140 years, however. In November, Banana Republic will release an Anna Karenina capsule collection designed by Durran. Think dark colours, hints of military styling on men’s and women’s jackets, mini capes and, of course, (fake) fur Cossack hats.” In Financial Times.
Immortalising McQueen – “The French photographer Anne Deniau first met the late Alexander McQueen at the end of 1996. At the time she was working for the fashion house Givenchy, where Lee Alexander McQueen had just been appointed creative director.” In The Telegraph.