{"id":6249,"date":"2010-10-18T05:38:26","date_gmt":"2010-10-18T02:38:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/2010\/10\/18\/eroine-byroniene-castele-si-corbi-inspiratia-gotica\/"},"modified":"2015-09-18T12:16:24","modified_gmt":"2015-09-18T09:16:24","slug":"eroine-byroniene-castele-si-corbi-inspiratia-gotica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/2010\/10\/18\/eroine-byroniene-castele-si-corbi-inspiratia-gotica\/","title":{"rendered":"Eroine byroniene, castele si corbi: inspiratia gotica"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Batman, Neo si Morticia ar trebui sa fie in culmea fericirii, daca sunt abonati la Vogue. La fel si orice fashionista care habar nu are ce sa imbrace de Halloween.<\/p>\n<p>Goticul, reinterpretat pentru cele care vor isi dezvaluie latura intunecata, ne invita sa ne costumam in eroine byroniene purtatoare de rochii din dantela suava, in dominatoare si femei fatale invesmantate in piele si latex, in fecioare medievale aparate de siluetele unor armuri magice din piele tabacita sau infasurate in cape cavaleresti, sa visam la castele bantuite, la ursiti pe cai albi si la iubiri ce transcend veacurile.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/3as4-john-rocha-morello.JPG\" title=\"Three as Four, John Rocha, Frankie Morella A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Three as Four, John Rocha, Frankie Morella A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/yohji-wang-mark-fast.JPG\" title=\"Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander Wang, Mark Fast A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander Wang, Mark Fast A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Este un sezon in care designerii reinterpreteaza goticul, in cheie \u201erock\u201d sau \u201eromantic-futurista\u201d, dar evident de lux. Colectii importante reusesc sa incante atat pe devotatele sub-culturii gotice, dar si pe dramaticele inspirate de efectele vizuale ale texturilor negre si ale creatiilor flamboaiante.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/af-vadervorst-angelo-marani-missoni.JPG\" title=\"AF Vandervorst, Angelo Marani, Missoni A\/W 2010\" alt=\"AF Vandervorst, Angelo Marani, Missoni A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Hainele au fie siluete clar desenate, cu elemente fixe, fie cu forme greu de deslusit, cu suprapuneri si transparente care camufleaza corpul. Rochiile cu insertii din piele si cusaturi externe, reliefate, creaza iluzia unor corsete sau platose; pelerinele voluminoase, din piele, sifon sau stofa, inlocuiesc trenele romantice dar ne imprumuta aceeasi postura impunatoare; bluzele medievale sunt infrumusetate de dantela vintage si tricotaje sub forma unor panze de p\u0103ianjen; drapajele si efectele de rasucire ale unor tesaturi creaza forme noi; siragurile multiple de perle negre stau alaturi de voalete, manusi din dantela neagra, ghete inalte de motociclist si paiete stralucitoare.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/demeleumeester-frankie-morelo-wayne.JPG\" title=\"Ann Demeleumeester, Frankie Morello, Wayne A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Ann Demeleumeester, Frankie Morello, Wayne A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/jpg-bora-aksu-wang.JPG\" title=\"Jean Paul Gaultier, Bora Aksu, Alexander Wang A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Jean Paul Gaultier, Bora Aksu, Alexander Wang A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p>De altfel, pielea si dantela sunt materialele preferate. Creatiile Givenchy, Louise Goldin sunt expresii ale unor viziuni romantice, fantomatice, in care siluetele feminine sunt potentate de conturari arhitecturale si de efectele texturilor celor doua materiale. Givenchy a renuntat la piele, in favoarea dantelei si penelor, in timp ce Goldin a preferat pielea sculptata, unghiurile geometrice si liniile futuriste, care mi-au adus aminte de mai vechi colectii Gareth Pugh. Dantela si tricotajele-plasa au aparut in cheia colectiei Missoni, in care negrul este metamorfozat in texturi-cascada, creatii senzuale si rafinamente pline de maturitate.<\/p>\n<p>Alexander Wang a optat pentru o perspectiva urbana, in care negrul si stilul post-grunge-goth dau nastere unor uniforme androgine. Desi sobre, creatiile lui sunt provocatoare, de un erotism ascuns, probabil datorita suprapunerilor si decupajelor atent plasate. In sfarsit, fanteziile romantice sunt sursa de inspiratie pentru Angelo Marani, Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann si Gareth Pugh.\u00a0 Fuste si rochii cu trena, straturi multiple si drapaje din voaluri negre, perle si aplicatii din pene, inele supradimensionate sunt cateva dintre piesele si detaliile in care se vor costuma Reginele Intunericului din acest sezon.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/givenchy-gareth-pugh.JPG\" title=\"Givenchy, Gareth Pugh A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Givenchy, Gareth Pugh A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/frankie-morello-louise-goldin.JPG\" title=\"Frankie Morello, Louise Goldin A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Frankie Morello, Louise Goldin A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/af-vadervorst-ysl-haider.JPG\" title=\"AF Vandervorst, Yves Saint Laurent, Haider Ackerman A\/W 2010\" alt=\"AF Vandervorst, Yves Saint Laurent, Haider Ackerman A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/bcbg-denis-basso-les-copains.JPG\" title=\"BCBG Max Azria, Dennis Basso, Les Copains A\/W 2010\" alt=\"BCBG Max Azria, Dennis Basso, Les Copains A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/dsquared2-ppq-gvenchy.JPG\" title=\"DSquared2, PPQ, Givenchy A\/W 2010\" alt=\"DSquared2, PPQ, Givenchy A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/elie-saab-wang.JPG\" title=\"Elie Saab, Alexander Wang, Adam A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Elie Saab, Alexander Wang, Adam A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/margiela-rock-owens-aqua.JPG\" title=\"Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Aquascutum A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Aquascutum A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/jen-kao-cnc-costume-national-elie-tahari.JPG\" title=\"Jen Kao, CNC Costume National, Elie Tahari A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Jen Kao, CNC Costume National, Elie Tahari A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/missoni-jill-stuart-dk.JPG\" title=\"Missoni, Jill Stuart, Donna Karan A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Missoni, Jill Stuart, Donna Karan A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\">\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/vanessa-bruno-rock-owens-camilla-staerk.JPG\" title=\"Vanessa Bruno, Rick Owens, Camilla Staerk A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Vanessa Bruno, Rick Owens, Camilla Staerk A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/haider-kane-versace.JPG\" title=\"Haider Ackerman, Christopher Kane, Versace A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Haider Ackerman, Christopher Kane, Versace A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/ysl-chapurin-ferre.JPG\" title=\"Yves Saint Laurent, Chapurin, Gianfranco Ferre A\/W 2010\" alt=\"Yves Saint Laurent, Chapurin, Gianfranco Ferre A\/W 2010\" width=\"480\" \/><\/p>\n<p>(Facand o paranteza mai larga si fara legatura cu moda, nu pot sa nu sesizez legatura (falsa!) dintre valul de filme si literatura cu vampiri-adolescenti cu reaparitia acestui stil romantic, misterios, intunecat (si, zic eu, deloc comercial). Spun \u201efalsa\u201d pentru ca din toate caracteristicile fictiunii gotice \u2013 intriga horror sau romantica, iubire siropoasa dar irealizabila dintre o muritoare si un blestemat, teme legate de mortalitate, decadere, decadenta si nebunie, butaforia tipic victoriana insotita de atmosferica ceata londoneza \u2013 nu s-au pastrat decat costumatia in culori intunecate si legaturile romantate dintre el si ea. Se pare ca azi, la fel ca in epoca victoriana, neo-goticul vinde, mai ales daca este simplificat intr-o reteta <em>a la americain<\/em>e, la fel ca<em> fast food<\/em>-ul. \u00a0Daca aveti chef sa va faceti plinul cu literatura gotica, gasiti aici cele mai valoroase exemple de fictiune: <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gothic_literature\" target=\"_blank\">http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gothic_literature<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p><em>Fotografii: nymag.com; elle.com\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Batman, Neo si Morticia ar trebui sa fie in culmea fericirii, daca sunt abonati la Vogue. La fel si orice fashionista care habar nu are ce sa imbrace de Halloween. Goticul, reinterpretat pentru cele care vor isi dezvaluie latura intunecata, ne invita sa ne costumam in eroine byroniene purtatoare de rochii din dantela suava, in [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6249","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-remarks-observations"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6249","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6249"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6249\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17597,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6249\/revisions\/17597"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6249"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6249"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6249"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}