{"id":19565,"date":"2017-03-23T18:12:26","date_gmt":"2017-03-23T16:12:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/?p=19565"},"modified":"2017-03-23T18:12:26","modified_gmt":"2017-03-23T16:12:26","slug":"putem-spune-ca-moda-este-in-sfarsit-etica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/2017\/03\/23\/putem-spune-ca-moda-este-in-sfarsit-etica\/","title":{"rendered":"Putem spune ca moda este, in sfarsit, etica?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Mini-colectiile &#8222;eco&#8221; au devenit o parte obisnuita a liniilor prezentate sezonier de brandurile mass-market: o prezenta aproape la fel de familiara precum paietele in colectiile de Craciun si imprimeurile florale in cele de primavara. Desigur, ele bifeaza o serie de &#8222;casute&#8221; pentru consumatoarele interesate de procentul de bumbac organic din tricourile, jeansii si rochiile cumparate. Insa <strong><em>putem spune ca brandurile fac cu adevarat un efort in directia sustenabilitatii si procesului de reciclare in moda sau se rezuma la gesturi simbolice care &#8222;repara&#8221; imaginea unui sistem defectuos?<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Mango<\/strong> este unul din brandurile care isi imbunatateste constant pozitionarea, atat prin design dar si incluzand sustenabilitatea in modelul lor de business. De curand a lansat <strong>Committed<\/strong>, o colectie compusa din 45 de piese (25 pentru femei si 20 pentru barbati): rochii cu aspect modern dar a caror inspiratie este vizibil clasica, costume comode cu blazere lejere si pantaloni largi sau conici, topuri cu maneci arhitecturale sau voluminoase. Per ansamblu: siluete minimaliste in tonuri naturale de crem, bejuri si verde, piese functionale cu linii curate, al caror design este realmente atragator. Le vad intrand in garderobele multor femei si surpavietuind nenumarate sezoane. Ce altceva scrie pe &#8222;cartea de vizita&#8221; a colectiei? Productia a fost realizata in Portugalia, Maroc si Turcia, piesele sunt din bumbac reciclat si\/ sau organic, poliester reciclat si Tencel, colorate cu vopseluri eco-friendly si vin insotite de certificate individuale de garantie a eticii procesului de fabricare. Pretul catorva piese din colectie este mai ridicat decat cel practicat, in general, de Mango, dar se datoreaza utilizarii fibrelor premium.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"19566\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/2017\/03\/23\/putem-spune-ca-moda-este-in-sfarsit-etica\/mango-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"852,1198\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Colectia mango Committed 2017\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-213x300.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-728x1024.jpg\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-19566\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-728x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Colectia mango Committed 2017\" width=\"670\" height=\"942\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-728x1024.jpg 728w, https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-213x300.jpg 213w, https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango-768x1080.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango.jpg 852w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 670px) 100vw, 670px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>In primavara lui 2016, <a href=\"http:\/\/fashionrevolution.org\/\" target=\"_blank\">Fashion Revolution<\/a> (ONG-ul britanic responsabil pentru campania mondiala #WhoMadeMyClothes) a facut publica prima editie a raportului <a href=\"http:\/\/fashionrevolution.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FR_FashionTransparencyIndex.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">Fashion Transparency Index<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Patruzeci de branduri din diverse sectoare ale industriei de moda &#8211; mass-market, de lux, de sport, accesorii, incaltaminte si denim &#8211; au fost supuse scrutinului si analizate pe baza informatiilor financiare disponibile. <a href=\"http:\/\/fashionrevolution.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/04\/FR_FashionTransparencyIndex.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">FTI<\/a> devine, astfel, o modalitate prin care industria modei este fortata sa isi asume responsabilitatea fata de procesul de productie si canalele proprii de distributie si, deloc de neglijat, fata de noi, consumatorii finali. Indexul ofera &#8222;note&#8221; fiecarui brand pe baza transparentei politicilor si codurilor interne, a programelor de CSR si furnizorilor de resurse, auditurilor sociale si de mediu, fara sa devina un vot de sustinere a performantelor etice ale acestuia.<\/p>\n<p>Spre exemplu, H&amp;M s-a clasat pe locul 1 anul trecut, desi salariile pe care le ofera muncitorilor din fabricile sale abia ating limita normalitatii. In raportul FTI din 2016, Mango are un scor de 50 de puncte &#8211; satisfacator, dar nu remarcabil sau meritoriu. Pe de alta parte, de la publicarea raportului, multe branduri si-au publicat listele cu locatiile fabricilor: Marks&amp;Spencer a inaintat chiar <a href=\"https:\/\/interactivemap.marksandspencer.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">o lista interactiva a tuturor fabricilor<\/a> cu care colaboreaza international, in mod similar Zara si Gap, Jack Wills a facut chiar <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jackwills.com\/ethical+trade.html\" target=\"_blank\">reportaje si interviuri in fabricile brandului din China si Portugalia<\/a> (incarcate apoi pe siteul firmei), iar ASOS urmeaza sa afiseze lista fabricilor care nu doar produc pentru brand, ci sunt si proprietatea acestuia.<\/p>\n<p>In concluzie, brandurile din lumea modei intentioneaza sa fie corecte, etice, angajate. Cu incetinitorul, lucrurile par sa se miste in directia potrivita si le putem privi cu speranta, dar si cu constiinta unui drum lung. Cine stie, poate in cativa ani aceste colectii-capsula vor evolua, se vor transforma in practici de business normale si frecvente, in reguli ale jocului in loc de a fi exceptii. Pentru ca shoppingul sa fie facut in spiritul corectitudinii, fara ca cineva sa munceasca in conditii abjecte pentru ca noi sa purtam o rochie cat se poate de obisnuita.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"19567\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/2017\/03\/23\/putem-spune-ca-moda-este-in-sfarsit-etica\/mango2-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"2460,1200\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"mango2\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-300x146.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-1024x500.jpg\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-19567\" src=\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-1024x500.jpg\" alt=\"mango2\" width=\"670\" height=\"327\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-1024x500.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-300x146.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/mango2-768x375.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 670px) 100vw, 670px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>P.S: puteti gasi colectia Committed in magazinul Mango din Bucuresti Mal<\/strong><\/em>l.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Mini-colectiile &#8222;eco&#8221; au devenit o parte obisnuita a liniilor prezentate sezonier de brandurile mass-market: o prezenta aproape la fel de familiara precum paietele in colectiile de Craciun si imprimeurile florale in cele de primavara. Desigur, ele bifeaza o serie de &#8222;casute&#8221; pentru consumatoarele interesate de procentul de bumbac organic din tricourile, jeansii si rochiile cumparate. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19568,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[3533,3534,3531,3532],"class_list":["post-19565","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-remarks-observations","tag-eco-fashion","tag-fashion-transparency-index","tag-mango-committed","tag-moda-sustenabila"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_7191.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19565","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19565"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19565\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19569,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19565\/revisions\/19569"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19568"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19565"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19565"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19565"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}