![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/tumblr_m9q8by7jCt1r71b95o1_500.jpg\" "\\"Lectura")
<\/a><\/p>\nPain and distress and discomfort are part of fashion. Fashion assaults our bodies and our emotions. Give me shoes I can walk in!<\/em>, I cry. And they offer me the revival of the loafer; in other words, how to make yourself look short and fat. […] I want beautiful fashionable shoes which I can nonetheless walk in, and there is a permanent flaw in this unrequieted wish. Of freedom and enchainment.<\/p>\n There is a symbolic telling of this contradiction that has lived in my mind for many years, the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale of the mermaid who falls in love with a mortal prince. On her 15th birthday, her grandmother admits her into merwomanhood, with advice which will reverberate throughout her short life:<\/p>\n „Well, now you are grown up”<\/em>, said the old dowager, her grandmother; „so you must let me adorn you like your other sisters<\/em>„; and she placed a wreath of white lilies in her hair, and every flower leaf was half a pearl. Then the old lady ordered 8 great oysters to attach themselves to the tail of the princess to show her high rank. „But they hurt me so”<\/em>, said the little mermaid. „Pride must suffer pain”,<\/em> replied the old lady.<\/p>\n Sa nu ne intristam pentru mica sirena, in weekend stam in balerini sau in sosete groase, si citim, citim, citim…<\/p>\n How Zara grew into the world’s largest fashion retailer<\/em> – \u201cInditex is a pioneer among \u2018fast fashion\u2019 companies, which essentially imitate the latest fashions and speed their cheaper versions into stores. Every one of Inditex\u2019s brands \u2014 Zara, Zara Home, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Oysho, Stradivarius, Pull & Bear and Uterq\u00fce \u2014 follow the Zara template\u2026\u201d In NY Times<\/a>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Donna Karan: working woman<\/em> – \u201cBorn in New York in 1948, the daughter of a model and a suit designer, Karan was working as associate designer at Anne Klein by 1971, two years after taking a summer job working for the designer. When Anne Klein died in 1974, Karan quickly assumed the mantle of chief designer. Ten years later, she left to create Donna Karan New York.\u201d In Wall Street Journal.<\/a><\/p>\n David Collins on McQueen’s return to Saville Row<\/em> – \u201cAlexander McQueen\u00a0has moved in at 9 Savile Row, the world\u2019s most hardcore tailoring address, with a menswear flagship\u2026\u00a0\u00a0Realising the McQ store which opened a few blocks away on Dover Street earlier this season,\u00a0David Collins\u00a0also designed this menswear space. We caught up with the interior designer and architect to discuss heritage and transgression.\u201d In Dazed Digital.<\/a><\/p>\n Jean genies<\/em> – In \u201cWhile the comparatively refined fabric we know as denim today is a world away from the rough utilitarian cloth of 60 years ago, some things never change and our dependence on jeans continues to grow as retailers report a seemingly insatiable appetite for premium jeans with a premium price tag to match.\u201d In The Independent<\/a>.<\/p>\n Frida Giannini: Gucci’s Shanghai Express<\/em> – \u201cGucci\u2019s first two shops on the Chinese mainland opened in Beijing and Shanghai in 1997, three years after Tom Ford started to transform the brand. Today there are 53 stores across 33 cities, and counting. So it is not surprising that Giannini has decided to spend some time getting to know Shanghai before continuing on to Seoul in South Korea for a store opening there.\u201d In The Telegraph.<\/a><\/p>\n Always in fashion<\/em> – \u201cOf course, Ms. Coddington\u2019s frankness and profanity, as well as her differences from her boss, are precisely what first endeared her to a mass audience three years ago, when she emerged as the unexpected breakout star of R. J. Cutler\u2019s documentary about Vogue, \u2018The September Issue.\u2019\u201d In NY Times<\/a>.<\/p>\n Tory Burch’s Ex Factor<\/em> – \u201cIn a brief eight years, Tory Burch has become one of fashion\u2019s biggest names, the golden girl with the golden brand. Is it thanks to, or in spite of, her former husband Chris Burch, who has launched his own, Tory-esque line of shops, C. Wonder, while still sitting on her company\u2019s board?\u201d In Vanity Fair.<\/a><\/p>\n Fashion weights a deeper investment in Africa<\/em> – \u201cDesigners from Vivienne Westwood to\u00a0Jean Paul Gaultier\u00a0have long drawn on the vibrancy of African culture in their clothing lines. But now the industry is taking a tentative look at whether it makes sense to put down larger stakes as the African economy begins to take its place alongside the world\u2019s other promising emerging markets.\u201d In International Herald Tribune<\/a>.<\/p>\n Parsons heads to Paris<\/em> – \u201cIt\u2019s bred some of the world\u2019s greatest designers \u2013 Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford are just a few of its famous alumni \u2013 and now Parsons, New York\u2019s renowned art and design college, is hoping to nurture some of Europe\u2019s future fashion talents with a foothold in Paris.\u201d In The Telegraph.<\/a><\/p>\n * The Thoughtful Dresser, Linda Grant.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" „Fashion does not do moderation. You have nice round-toed low-heeled shoes, and you must wear them with skirts that reach halfway up your thighs. You have ankle-grazing evening gowns, but they will be cut on the bias to reveal a fabric impression of every ripple and bump pf your cellulite. And on and on. There […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3191],"tags":[251,1621,104,1122,877,1623,980,1622,1564,558],"class_list":["post-10472","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-the-stylish-bookshelf","tag-donna-karan","tag-frida-giannini","tag-gucci","tag-inditex","tag-lectura-de-sambata-dimineata","tag-parsons-school-of-design","tag-recomandari-de-lectura","tag-saville-row","tag-tory-burch","tag-zara"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10472"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10472\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17229,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10472\/revisions\/17229"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10472"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10472"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.stylediary.ro\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a><\/p>\n