Desi nu urmaresc probleme politice si economice mondiale, pana si eu stiu ca saptamana trecuta, la Bruxelles a avut loc summit-ul prin care liderii Europei spera sa rezolve criza datoriilor din zona euro. Conferinte de presa, dezbateri aprinse, vociferari, voturi si asa mai departe… Un lucru insa a parut a fi fost votat in unanimitate (sau cel putin asa se vedea prin prisma unui consultant de imagine ): ce au preferat sa imbrace oamenii politici pentru a-si telegrafia pozitia.

Ca e vorba de Angela Merkel (cancelariul Germaniei), Christine Lagarde (Managing Director al IMF), David Cameron (prim-ministrul Marii Britanii), Jose Manuel Barroso (presedintele Comisiei Europeene) sau Herman van Rompuy (presedintele Consiliului European), salile de conferinte au fost impanzite de o mare de albastru si bleumarin.

Nu spun ca bleumarinul este o alegere neobisnuita pentru politica. Din contra, este cea mai traditionala si mai la indemana culoare pentru o tinuta business ireprosabila, intr-un mediu in care imaginea transmite un mesaj inainte ca purtatorul sa articuleze o silaba.

Pe de alta parte, la fel de previzibila este reteta conform careia, atunci cand vrei sa concentrezi privirile publicului pe vorbitor, sa porti un “semn de exclamatie”, un accent de culoare in tinuta, care sa te diferenteze de masa: o cravata rosie in cazul barbatilor, un sacou visiniu in cazul femeilor…

De ce aceasta uniformitate de albastru, tocmai acum?  Cred ca are de-a face cu psihologia, si nu doar cea cromatica.

Albastrul, in special in tonurile sale inchise, sugereaza o stare de calm, poate fi un simbol al tristetii, al racelii, al distantarii rationale. Paleta de pasteluri (bleu, azuriu) si nuante aprinse de albastru sunt culori asociate sperantei si pacii. Asadar, poate ca numeroasele cravate albastre si bleu ale politicienilor, alaturi de catifeaua albastra a cancelarului Merkel si esarfa bleu a doamnei Lagarde au fost o modalitate subliminala de a transmite ca nu renunta la a gasi solutii, ca mai exista o speranta. Sau poate cine stie, la modul cel mai simplist, au ales albastrul ca sa sugereze ca vor face “front comun”.

Sunt convinsa ca cei mai multi dintre noi nu realizam seriozitatea si pericolele situatiei economice – iar daca ar fi sa judecam dupa costumul negru-funerar al lui Sarkozy, suntem cu totii la un pas de sinucidere financiara.

In sfarsit, prin ochi de stilist, nu pot sa nu gasesc interesant faptul ca in ultimii trei ani combinatia de costum in nuanta inchisa (bleumarin, gri antracit, negru)/ camasa alba/ cravata albastra a devenit uniforma politicii europeene.

Later edit: nu numai europeene, pardon. La sfarsitul primelor sale 100 de zile de presedintie, un sondaj facut de biroul de presa al Casei Albei facea publica preferinta lui Barack Obama pentru cravate in nuante de albastru si bleumarin. Vedeti mai jos.

Topshop a facut-o, la inceputul anilor 2000, cand directoare de creatie era Jane Shepherdson. Whistles, Club Monaco, Jaeger London, Target au trecut si ele, la un moment dat, printr-un makeover. O transformare de imagine si o schimbare de directie.

Este ceea ce se intampla acum cu TinaR. In urma cu vreo 10-12 ani, era nu doar un brand popular, dar probabil si cel mai stabil si cunoscut brand romanesc de moda. Hainele erau colorate si dragute, iar magazinele zumzaiau de cliente fidele. A avut o perioada lunga de declin, in care am vazut colectii terne cromatic si neplacute estetic, magazine prost iluminate, prost aranjate, deschise in locatii nepotrivite, si chiar piese copiate din colectiile lanturilor de magazine internationale.

Acum insa se scutura de vechi, se re-analizeaza (ca atunci cand simti ca esti intr-un moment definitoriu al vietii), se metamorfozeaza si se relanseaza. Asta am aflat saptamana trecuta, cand Paula m-a invitat sa fac o vizita in magazinul din AFI. “Haide, am multe vesti sa iti dau, dar cel mai bine o sa intelegi daca vezi chiar hainele!”

Si intr-adevar, mi-a placut ce am vazut. Colectia de toamna-iarna este foarte colorata, predomina rosul, oranjul, violetul si verdele-padure, dar in echilibru alaturi de bejuri calde, bleumarin, negru, alb.  Desi exista in continuare piese cu croieli clasice, am avut surpriza sa descopar si pantaloni cu croieli foarte moderne si din materiale de calitate, tricotaje frumoase si foarte tactile, placute la atingere, genti din piele ecologica cu linii foarte cool.

Dincolo de partea de creatie si produs, cu un ochi atent poti deja sa descoperi directia spre care se indreapta TinaR. Etichetele poarta, pe langa preturile rezonabile, corecte (o camasa: 139 ron; o esarfa multicolora: 39 ron; o geanta: 199 ron), un mesaj facut sa iti insenineze ziua sau poate doar sa iti faca mai placuta sederea in magazin sau redescoperirea piesei, cand ajungi acasa: “Ma poti purta usor cu tine, am sa iti vin bine. Pentru ca ma asortez cu tine si cu zambetele tale”.

Vitrinele vor avea rol de billboard, cu imagini preluate din campania de imagine: un grup de 7 femei reale si normale, cu varste intre 25-50 de ani, imbracate in tinute create de ele insele, de la variante 9-to-5, sport-feminin sau preppy-androgin.

Zambetul larg si natural – adica efectul acela placut, al reactiei cand te vezi frumoasa in oglinda, cand te simti in largul tau intr-o haina sau cand ai siguranta ca orice pui pe tine iti vine bine – este scopul celor de la TinaR, si se simte ca muncesc pentru asta. Colaboreaza cu Ludmila Corlateanu, deschid magazine in Constanta si Arad, aduc produse noi in magazine la fiecare 2 saptamani, relanseaza magazinul online in noiembrie, sunt activi in social media (btw, daca va imprieteniti cu TinaR pe Facebook, primiti parole in schimbul carora aveti reduceri la colectia noua)…

Mie personal s-a lipit de suflet o camasa pepit, cu mici carouri alb-bleumarin, so preppy”  and so J.Crew-like, incat daca nu as fi vazut-o in magazin, nu as fi zis ca pot gasi asa ceva in Bucuresti. Am plecat cu ea acasa si va spun sincer, am zambit larg de fiecare data cand am purtat-o (nu ca in poza…).

Citesc acum colectia de povestiri si nuvele ale lui Cheever – descrieri melancolice, pe alocuri descurajante si pline de amaraciune, despre o America in perioada interbelica si post-belica, despre un New York de pe vremea cand toti barbatii purtau palarii, la petreceri se bea gin tonic, serile radioul se asculta in familie, sotiile erau cuminti, gospodine si gazde perfecte, si in general o lume populata de personaje ratate, care nu inteleg unde le-a disparut tineretea si traiesc mici drame cotidiene. Cu toate astea, vi le recomand din suflet, mai ales daca vreti sa incercati si un alt mare scriitor american in afara de Hemingway, Steinbeck si Fitzgerald.

M-a amuzat si interesat descrierea unei zile de shopping ale unei femei din anii ’5o. Spuneti-mi voi: cat de mult s-au schimbat lucrurile fata de acum 60 de ani?.. Here it goes. “Ca multe alte femei din New York, Lois petrecea enorm de mult timp la cumparaturi pe Fifth Avenue. Cumparaturile erau principala ei ocupatie. Era in stare sa mearga la cumparaturi bolnava. Isi incepea dupa-amiaza la Altman – cumpara o pereche de manusi la parter, apoi urca la etaj cu scara rulanta sa se uite la un gratar pentru semineu. Cumpara o poseta si o crema de fata de la Lord & Taylor si examina masutele de cafea, stofele de tapiterie si paharele de cocktail. Cumpara o pereche de pantofi si un furou de la Saks, ii trimitea mamei ei niste servete de la Mosse, cumpara un brat de flori de stofa de la De Pinna, crema pentru maini de la Bonwit si o rochie de la Bendel. Cumpara prajituri de la Dean, ultima ei oprire si se intorcea acasa pe jos, printre umbrele isnerarii, ca un adevarat om al muncii, multumita si epuizata.”

Trecand la lucruri mai serioase, desi aparent frivole, am pentru voi o lista consistenta de articole. Enjoy, my princesses!

Remembering Diana Vreeland – “Diana Vreeland, who died in 1989, is hardly an unknown figure in the worlds of fashion and journalism… But now, a new documentary that was shown over the weekend at both the Venice and Telluride film festivals has the potential to bring Ms. Vreeland’s story, and a pretty compelling one it is, to a wider audience.” In NY Times.

New York Fashion Week: 10 years later – “It is but a small footnote to history that the 9/11 terrorist attacks happened on what was to have been the fourth day of New York Fashion Week for the spring 2002 season… In the days that followed, many designers, as they struggled to make sense of their world and resume the daily business of fashion, arranged simple presentations… But for the younger designers… There was no viable way to show their collections to the buyers or press.” In NY Times.

Behind a designer, there’ s a stylist - “Prabal Gurung’s stylist, Tiina Laakkonen, is a confidante and a hired gun. She morphs from editor of images to enforcer of deadlines, consulting on tailoring or scouting out shoes and other accessories for models to wear.” In Wall Street Journal.

Designers, celebrity woo shoppers around the world - “Department stores, designers and celebrities wooed economically battered shoppers around the world on Thursday during the 3rd annual “Fashion’s Night Out” event to encourage spending and raise money for charity. ‘Fashion’s Night Out,’ the brainchild of Vogue magazine editor Anna Wintour, was designed to jump-start an industry battered by the global recession.” Pe Reuters.

In L.A., best friends build the best buzz – “Tweeting is what friends are for. A network of L.A. girlfriends are using their close friendships and Internet sophistication to inspire and promote their own home  – grown style machine.” In Wall Street Journal.

John Galliano: the rise and fall of a tormented celebrity - “In the dossier that was presented to the court in Mr Galliano’s defence, a story emerged of a celebrity tormented by fear, hate, self-indulgence and loneliness. There were plenty of people within the fashion industry who saw this tragedy unfolding. But it seemed no-one had the power to stop it.” Pe BBC News.

Facebook, fashion and fantasy - “Instead of Facebook, substitute Alexander McQueen; instead of the list of promising-but-still-not-necessarily-profitable internet start-ups like Foursquare, Bump and Spotify, substitute Cushnie et Ochs, Joseph Altuzarra, Peter Som, Wes Gordon (to name a few); or Bora Aksu, Felder Felder, and Danielle Scutt. Of them, how many are really going to become global names?” In Financial Times.

Katie Grand: the super-stylist - “Katie Grand, the magazine editor and stylist -or super-stylist as she is now described, perhaps in reference to the many fashion superbrands for which she has helped create defining images – has the sort of non-stop life that sounds just too fabulous and utterly exhausting.” In The Telegraph.

Paris to sell its young - “The Council of Fashion Designers of America is taking a page out of the British Fashion Council’s playbook and is bringing 10 of the past CFDA/US Vogue Fashion Fund finalists to Paris Fashion Week. The finalists will be able to use showrooms to help them “expand their international business and increase their presence outside of the United States,” according to Steven Kolb, CFDA chief executive.” In Financial Times.

Next step for labels: cyber-boutiques - “The ultimate challenge for all luxury brands is to go digital — without losing their key attributes of individuality and identity. Yet click onto almost every big name fashion Web site and while the product offering might be tempting, the experience is often bland and only two-dimensional. The success of Net-a-porter.com and of its witty masculine version, Mrporter.com, is the magazine-style content that makes the sites entertaining as well as efficient.” In International Herald Tribune.

Where fashion gazes at itself – “Tumblr, founded four years ago, has reached out to the fashion community in a way no other social networking site has. For the second time, it has brought users to New York Fashion Week as reporters, paying for their trips and giving them access to the shows. Their coverage is being posted on a dedicated channel, tumblr.com/NYFW, made up of posts from 20 bloggers picked by Tumblr’s staff, along with contributions from magazines that have their own Tumblrs.” In NY Times.

A fashionista gets her own show - “Blockbuster exhibitions dedicated to fashion designers have become popular at museums. But “Daphne Guinness,” opening on Friday at New York’s Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, has a different focus—one especially stylish customer.” In Wall Street Journal.

Luxury: the next generation – “One of the more astonishing success stories of the past century has been the evolution of luxury retailing, from small-scale family firms to an international, multi-billion dollar industry… Yet, as the modern industry struggles to reconcile its artisanal heritage with today’s public offerings and quarterly reports, it is the personal, family connection that bridges the gap.” In Financial Times.

Hats, hats and more hats - “Often referred to as the orphan of the accessory world, hats are parentless no more. It’s been quite a season for chapeaus, which popped up on the runways in London, Milan and Paris, and were the talk of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding in April. Now, the oh-so-British flourish is taking Manhattan, as English milliner to the stars Stephen Jones’s exhibition, “Hats: An Anthology,” travels stateside from London’s Victoria & Albert museum to the Bard Graduate Center, Sept. 15 through April 15.”. In Wall Street Journal.

Ieri am descoperit ca Time.com a pus Polyvore pe lista sa a celor mai bune 50 de siteuri pe 2011, in categoria Shopping & Travel. Buna alegere, dar si surprinzator de tarzie – siteul exista de cel putin 2 ani de zile, are lunar 6.5 milioane de vizitatori unici, si a dezvoltat – pe langa aplicatia de baza, de instrument virtual de shopping, o adevarata comunitate (cu blog, recomandari de stil, platforme pentru retaileri si advertiseri, dar mai ales faimoasele colaje de imagine, deja devenite locuri comune).

Lista din Time mi-a adus aminte de un articol mai vechi, din 2009, din NY Times, care incerca sa dea nastere unei competitii: presa traditionala de moda, revistele tiparite pentru femei, tinere etc fata in fata cu ceea ce ar fi putut reprezenta concurenta acestora in mediiul online. Argumentul principal al acelui articol era ca Polyvore avea, la vremea aceea, 835,000 de vizitatori unici, cu aproape 25% mai mult decat traficul de pe Style.com. Discutia era dusa un pas mai departe de fetele care semneaza The Cut, care intrebau retoric: “Oare Anna Wintour are habar ce inseamna “click through”?”

Mi-aduc aminte ca la vremea respectiva nu m-am putut stapani sa nu apar in gand presa traditionala, tiparita, glossies. Stiu ca toata lumea ii prevesteste moartea, de suspect de mult timp: inca nu a disparut, coexista, supravietuieste, se reinventeaza alaturi de presa online. Reactia mea era mai mult un fel de indignare (sau poate nemultumire?) fata de o comparatie cladita pe o fundatie inexacta, gresita, fara substanta (Polyvore vs. Style).

In ultimii 4 ani a existat o crestere fantastica in social media si in comunitatile online. Nenumarate siteuri de e-commerce s-au extind in online publishing si revistele lor sunt interactive (ASOS, Net-a-Porter, ba chiar si John Lewis). Publisherii traditionali isi schimba modelul de business intr-un ritm naucitor (in mod ironic, in octombrie, imediat dupa saptamana modei de la Paris, Style.com isi va lansa prima revista TIPARITA, fiind prima trecere “inversa” in domeniu, de la online la print, imediat dupa aceea lansand o prima proprie tentativa in zona de e-commerce).

Intrebarea mea era: de ce? adica de ce chinuie sa o faca? Pana la urma, publisherii sunt in businessul de publishing, nu de dezvoltare de aplicatii. Nu e treaba lor sa inventeze noi tehnologii, ci doar sa se foloseasca de ele. Ar trebui sa se concentreze pe a crea continut de calitate, sa gaseasca solutii care sa le apropie audienta si sa le-o largeasca.

Pana si autoarea articolul din NY Times recunostea, spre sfarsitul materialului, ca Polyvore este – si foarte probabil va ramane – un agregator de branduri cum este si ShopStyle. Ceea ce nu face decat sa imi intareasca convingerea ca se facea comparatie intre mere si pere. Polyvore nu avea si nu are continut editorial. ShopStyle la fel, diferenta fiind ca acesta din urma poate fi introdus ca widget in diferite siteuri si bloguri, oferind instrumente de shopping si comparatii de preturi. De ce nu ar putea face si Style.com acelasi lucru, incepand din octombrie? Nu ar fi fost mai cool si mai benefic pentru toata lumea, in loc sa se fi jucat cu cifrele de trafic irelevante?

Finding respite in cool shade, in this pastel world of light and shadows,
Butterflies flutter in a golden haze and crickets sing in motionless meadows…

Nu mai e mult si vara se va incheia. Mai avem totusi timp, cateva saptamani, sa ne bucuram de cosuri impletite din rafie, de coronite de flori asezat pe parul proaspat spalat, de inghetate si sorbeturi de fructe, de pepene verde si limonade, de fuste lungi vaporoase si bluze transparente, de fierbinteala soarelui la amiaza si de nopti blande cu cantec de greieri si miros sarat, de nasuri arse, chiar de cateva ploi (ultimele!) de vara si, mai ales, de momente perfecte de respiro.

La un moment dat, ne intoarcem si la realitate, iar intre cafeaua de dimineata si alergatura de weekend, merita sa ne facem timp si pentru lectura.

Designer Nicholas Kirkwood talks extreme shoes – “After graduation in 2005, he found work with milliner Philip Treacy. It was there that he noticed a void in the market for truly artistic shoes. ‘There were really exciting things going on in ready-to-wear with Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan, and with hats too,’ he said of the London fashion scene at the time. ‘But the shoes were from a different decade.’” In L.A. Times.

Indian summer – “Designers are predicting an unseasonably warm fall, with vibrant flower prints blooming on everything from hot pants to cocktail dresses. And although wearing blooms and buds—traditionally reserved for the resort and spring seasons—is considered a fashion faux pas by the no-white-after-Labor-Day camp, flowers popped up in every variety on the runways at Gucci, Miu Miu, Jil Sander and others.” In Wall Street Journal.

Fashion: red in tooth and claw? - “The story so far: in 2008 Louboutin trademarked a lacquered red sole on footwear ( Pantone No. 18-1663 TP, or Chinese Red). In April this year Louboutin filed a trademark infringement lawsuit in New York saying that YSL had breached its copyright by using the red sole… Potentially worse for Christian Louboutin, who has another hearing in the case scheduled this Friday, the judge also implied that his 2008 trademark could be cancelled.” In Financial Times.

Peter Philips, the most influential make-up artist in the world - “As the global creative director for Chanel beauty– creating looks for that company’s runway shows, beauty advertising campaigns and the product itself, from nail polish to lipstick, worn by millions, if not billions, of women – he is the most influential of his profession by far… Among many other beauty moments, it was Philips who created the extraordinary underwater alien look for Alexander McQueen’s final show, Plato’s Atlantis.” In The Independent.

Pushing the boundaries of black style – “As opposed to the fascistically frozen street-style snaps of The Sartorialist and others, these pictures are styled and plotted fictions but also affecting ones, depicting a pair of young black men taking ownership not just of the body and what goes on it, but also of the environment it moves in… Already they have wide reach: Street Etiquette receives 20,000 page views a day.” In International Herald Tribune.

London: fashion capital of the world - “London has overtaken New York as the world’s fashion capital for 2011, according to a survey by the Texas-based trend analyser, Global Language Monitor. Based on a system that tracks the frequency of words and phrases in print, electronic and social media, London has officially claimed the top spot – which New York had claimed for several years – after a surge in media interest.” In The Telegraph.

The denim jacket: a definitive closet must-have -”It’s layerable, light weight and tempers frilly summer frocks in an instant. And depending on the style, it can give your look a worn-in western look or fashion forward-edgy appeal, creating new possibilities for certain items sitting in your closet. ” In L.A. Times

Barney’s fall line -  “Like many of its clients, Barneys has had its ups, its downs, and its great many in-betweens, and it is, at right this very moment, engaged in that most New York of pursuits: a reinvention… Last summer, Mark Lee was hired as Barneys’ new CEO. His reputation is as golden as it gets in the fashion world: He’s spent his career in Europe occupying high-level positions at important fashion houses—­Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, and, most recently, Gucci.” In NY Magazine.

Fashion’s latest blockbuster - “What is the premise of fashion every season but the idea that the hoary old building blocks of a wardrobe (shirts, dresses, trousers) can be recombined into unexpected and thrilling new products that we will all want to rush out and buy?” In Financial Times.

To every suit there is a season – “Thick, woolly suits will soon begin showing up in stores as designers push fall collections to persuade men to buy a suit for every season.  Brands are moving away from the year-round suit and instead are pushing heavy-fabric suits and sport coats for fall, in thick English and Scottish tweeds and wools. The trend aims to resurrect the idea of the seasonal suit and pay homage to menswear heritage.” In Wall Street Journal.

Wipe on, wipe off: the march of the towelettes – “These upscale wipes are infused with sunscreen, self-tanner, hair serum, deodorant. They remove nail polish, dirt, maybe even wrinkles. And they are becoming ubiquitous as brands scramble to satisfy consumer demand.” In NY Times.

Bagging a new style of customer – “How many bags does one man need? Coach says its new line of bags and accessories for men caters to a more youthful, creative guy who wants a bag for every occasion.” In Wall Street Journal.

On the phone: M-Commerce is the word - ““… Along comes m-commerce, capturing sales on the go. It’s quickly becoming a digital priority for the fashion industry, and accessories are rising as a hot category… Net-a-Porter’s accessories buying manager, Sasha Sarokin, reports that with m-commerce, more ‘everyday’ and ‘wear-now’ accessories, like friendship bracelets or small pendant necklaces, are big sellers. Higher-ticket items sell as well, particularly those that pack a strong photographic punch.” In WWD.

Chasing luxury dreams: a tale from Chengdu - “It’s one thing that the Chinese government infrastructure projects such as massive railway development; it’s another thing that it promotes luxury consumption. Yes, that is exactly what the government of Chengdu, a second-tier city in south-west China, has proudly done… According to Chengdu Retail Industry Association, Chengdu is home to 80 percent of international luxury brands and ranked third behind Beijing and Shanghai in luxury sales.” In Forbes.

Patricia Field: supports Galliano and speaks her mind about David Cameron – “Field is working as an ambassador for the Lenor fabric softener, offering style tips on how to wear the clothes that often lie forgotten at the back of wardrobes.  Over the years, she has faced criticism for using expensive designer labels and questions about how a freelance writer could afford “a closet full” of Manolo Blahnik shoes.” In The Independent.

Why the wealthy will stop spending - “Luxury (at least in the U.S.) is no longer a stable industry. It is increasingly becoming the most manic segment of our consumer economy, as it follows the hyper swings of the stock market rather broader economic growth. The new normal for luxury means there is no more normal. As financial markets, wealth and luxury spending become more intimately linked, luxury will be prone to more sudden spikes and crashes.” In Wall Street Journal.