Doar ce s-au terminat filmele norvegiene la ICR, ca a inceput festivalul filmelor thailandeze la MTR. As fi vrut sa pot vedea Best of Times, pentru cat de adevarate sunt cuvintele astea: “Things we want to remember, we forget; things we want to forget, we remember..”
In schimb, spre seara am sa merg sa vad Autobiografia lui Nicolae Ceausescu (pentru ca dimineata muncesc, duh), duminica ma intalnesc cu vreo 15 fete la mall (parte din atelierele de stil de la Calea Victoriei, unde btw, s-au deschis inscrierile pentru grupa de decembrie) si apoi lenevesc sub o patura, citind Madame Bovary (parafrazandu-l pe Flaubert, spun si eu ca, candva, Madame Bovary eram eu. Not anymore...:-P ) In alta ordine de idei, pe cele care iubesc perioada interbelica si tot ce inseamna vintage, le invit sa se intoarca in anii `30 si sa participe la Great Depression Party.
Ah, si inainte sa uit!! Stiti vorba aia cu “universul care comploteaza/ legea atractiei/ gandire pozitiva”? Zilele trecute ma visam, cu ochii deschisi, la volanul unei masinute girlie, rapide, colorate, schimband vitezele si muzica in acelasi timp pe autostrada, zig-zagand printre alte masini in oras, alea-alea… Nah, n-o sa va vina sa credeti, pentru ca nici mie nu imi vine sa cred, dar… Citroen mi-a propus (printr-o agentie de publicitate) sa testez noul lor DS3 timp de o saptamana. O.M.G, vorba lui Alex Baldwin. Nu ma dau mare acum – o sa ma dau mai incolo, si o sa le dau cu masina si pe toate prietenele mele! – dar cred ca e momentul sa pun bazele unei noi secte, care crede in fericire ever after, sincronicitate, “good things come to those who wait”si “don’t stop believing”.
Cat despre ce avem astazi de citit…
The perfect dress is a loyal friend – “Where fashion is concerned, perfection is in the eye of the beholder; but also, and more critically, in the experience of the wearer. TPD then is the item of clothing that makes you feel fantastic the moment you slip it on—regardless of the time of the month; the fact you just had a nasty shock when you stood on the scales; no matter the row you have just had with your partner/child/boss; or that you spent the previous night sleepless, worrying about whether or not to close your offshore accounts. TPD is your ace of spades, your “sure thing”; it is what you turn to in times of strife, stress and uber-important last-minute business dinners, when you don’t have time to think about what to wear.” Pe Wall Street Journal.
Olivier Theyskens and Theory: Q&A – “I see everything becoming so global. When I started working on this collection, I thought about what kind of clothes I would like to have in my wardrobe if I were a cool girl.” In NY Times.
Fashion people are seeing red - “Red is the sleeper of the season, and it’s manifested itself in some pretty unconventional, taste-challenging ways, too. Red trousers are unexpectedly, unbelievably, catching on amongst fashion sorts.” In The Telegraph.
Saved by the closet - “In today’s sour economy, however, what once seemed like waste is starting to look like wealth: assets to draw on when times get tough (and not just because of all those ads promising top dollar for your gold jewelry). Material abundance, it turns out, produces economic resilience.”Pe Wall Street Journal.
Eat, pray, love – and shop – “The problem is, the book – and possibly, the film – is all about not buying stuff. It’s about looking for answers on the inside. If the movie is successful, one would assume that those who identify with Gilbert’s journey – and a few million people bought the book, so presumably a lot do – will actually exit the film in an anti-consumer mood.” In Financial Times.
Boucheron enhaces consumer experience with AR initiative - “French jewelry house Boucheron is letting consumers find out how the brand’s products look on their hands from the comfort of their homes via a new augmented reality Web experience.” Pe Luxury Daily.
Carriers of the torch, in a chorus of red hair - “But right now red hair is not just one woman’s statement — it’s a chorus. The subtly auburn girl-next-door actress Emma Stone, of “Easy A” and “Superbad,” made her debut last weekend. and Eva Longoria both gave themselves red highlights in the last year, while the “Twilight” actress Kristen Stewart attempted a strawberry blond.” In NY Times.
Return of the hourglass look – “This autumn, everyone including Michael Kors, Miuccia Prada, Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, and Jason Wu, have revived Christian Dior’s postwar New Look for a new decade. It is, says Ikram Goldman of Ikram, the influential Chicago boutique, “a fashion moment”. The question is why or, more specifically, why now?” In Financial Times.
Moncler, where the parkas need a bouncer – “The jackets, long the preserve of skiers (the company was founded in 1952), began appearing on fashionable hip-hop crowds a few years ago, widening the company’s reach beyond specialty shoppers. They come in a slate of bold and sometimes disquieting colors, often shiny, and, for winter wear, are relatively slimming.” In NY Times.
The midi skirt is back, but are you a Betty or a Joan? – “In one small triumph for womankind and a giant leap by the fashion world, the “midi” – described as this season’s “new womanly” look – is back. The “midi” – which comes in a flared, new style and a figure-hugging pencil version, can be better described as elegant and feminine.” In The Telegraph.
Out of the kitchen, onto the runway - “The humble apron, iconic symbol of the 1950s housewife, is serving as inspiration for a number of fashion labels. In their recent runway shows, designers like Anna Sui, Dolce & Gabbana’s D&G, and Missoni showed pinafore-style pieces with square necklines, straps and strings that tied in the back.” Pe Wall Street Journal.
Elling este unul dintre acele filme surprinzatoare, care te lasa cu o lacrima in coltul ochiului, cu zambet pe buze si cu multe intrebari. A fost nominalizat la Oscar dar nu a castigat. Ok, poate nu a castigat THE Oscar, dar sigur a castigat alte premii, prin inimile celor care l-au vazut. Anyway, nu despre film in sine sau despre personajul principal vroiam sa vorbesc in dimineata asta, ci despre rolul de limbaj stenografic al hainelor.
Pentru ca, chiar daca nu urmaresti dialogurile in norvegiana si nu reusesti sa citesti subtitlurile in romana/ engleza, la 10 secunde dupa inceperea filmului, te prinzi ca Elling este „special”: isi poarta camasile inchise pana la ultimul nasture.
Ganditi-va la Forrest Gump, la Sean Penn in I Am Sam, la Billy Bob Thornton in Sling Blade. Putin mai inceti la minte, dar autentici si eventual autisti, cetateni aparent perfect integrati in societate, cu acel ultim nasture al camasii, cel de sus, drept element de diferentiere de restul populatiei, mult mai relaxata. Nasturele de sus, inchis cu grija si meticulozitate, ne spune: „sunt adult, am grija de mine, ma descurc.”
Nasturele de sus al camasii inchis este si simbolul tocilarilor. Moss din IT Crowd (my favourite, favourite TV show!) nu este inapoiat mintal – din contra, este creativ, haios, prietenos, dar nu este ceea ce noi am numi „normal”. Saracul baiat este incarcat cu toate detaliile tipice unui om pe cale sa fie ostracizat social: voce pitigaiata si nazala, ochelari cu rame groase si demodate, papioane si cardiganuri batranesti, pantalonii ramasi scurti, un aer caraghios de pedagogic, dragoste pentru calculatoare si firewalls (you don’t want to end up in the middle of invalid memory!) si, evident, camasi cadrilate incheiate la toti nasturii.
Sa nu credeti ca nasturele de sus este corelat doar cu retardare mentala. Aduceti-va aminte de Adrian Monk, detectivul foarte smart dar suferind de OCD. Intr-unul din episoadele finale, Monk are un flashback, in care il vedem inainte de moartea sotiei lui – eveniment care i-a exacerbat tendintele obsesiv-compulsive. Cu exceptia unui detaliu (poarta cravata ), vechiul Monk arata si se purta cam la fel. Si totusi, detaliul cravatei lipsa, post-trauma, este cel care il plaseaza in categoria „specialilor” si nu este ales intamplator. Ileane Meltzer este cea care s-a ocupat de vestimentatia celor care apareau in serial si, cand i s-a cerut sa explice acest signature look al lui Monk, a spus: „We did some research: ties carry a million germs. People don’t clean their ties. Food goes on their ties as they’re hanging around their necks. People cough, sneeze; everything goes on the tie. They’re cleaned maybe once a year – if that. So that was a big no-no for a germophobe.”
Iar de aici, doar un pas pana la geek chic…
Acum imi beau cafeaua, cu gandul la mini-degustarea de cafea de miercuri, de la Starbucks, pe care am castigat-o in urma unui comentariu pe blogul lui Adrian Ciubotaru.
Nu o sorb – asa cum ar trebui sa fac cu un espresso -, i-am pus mai putin zahar – ca sa nu devina mai puternica, nu am facut pairing cu nici un fel de prajiturica – pentru ca am mancat ieri o prajitura 
Anyway, foarte cool acea degustare si, FYI, puteti lua si voi parte la asemenea “tratamente”, pentru ca Starbucks organizeaza lunar degustari si mini-seminarii despre cafea, este suficient sa intrati pe siteul lor ca sa aflati datele si locatiile.
A fost si asta o saptamana plina, care inca nu s-a terminat. Diseara merg sa o vad pe Alexandrina la Palatul Ghyka, vineri a inceput Festivalul de film Rus la cinematografele Studio si Eforie, MTR-ul prezinta in fiecare seara de luni, pana in decembrie, documentare britanice, iar Fundatia Calea Victoriei va da intalnire in fata la BNR si va plimba astazi prin Orasul de Mijloc. Mergeti la un stand-up comedy in Club 99, miercuri la o seara de jazz cu Jezebel in La Historia, mergeti la targul Sf. Dumitru la Muzeul Satului, tratati-va cu ceaiuri aromate, cu cacao aburinda, cu placinte de dovleac si cu mere coapte, cumparati-va paturi pufoase si sosete moi, bucurati-va de serile lungi si de diminetile cu soare si aer rece, ridicati-va nasurile din calculatoare si observati ca e toamna afara…
Pana una-alta, sa mai “lecturam” ceva online. Cum ar fi…
Reinventing Savile Row – “Faced with constant pressure from the bottom end of the market, such as low-cost operations that claim to offer ‘bespoke’ goods… and the top end, in the form of slick designer labels… Savile Row’s tailors had a choice —evolve or go extinct.” Pe WWD.
Marc Jacobs’ Chinoiserie: Obsession or opportunism? – “Beyond the playfulness and glam, reviewers clearly picked up on the Asian influence, seeing it as an acknowledgement of the growing industry influence of China and other Asian countries, or perhaps a play for their consumers.” Pe Jing Daily.
From Boys to men - “It’s also, like comfort food, about the economy…Look back to movies during the Depression, and all you saw was real guys like James Cagney. In tough times, people want a strong man.” Oooh, baby, ca sa zic asa… In NY Times.
Luxe lowdown: Tony sites begin to invite buyers review – “More than a decade after book and electronics retailers embraced online customer reviews, the most elite stores in the U.S. are opening their websites—and the brands they sell—to the slings and arrows of public opinion.” Pe Wall Street Journal.
Bling is back – “The strength of the recovery was a surprise…. Big brands such as Louis Vuitton and Hermès are the main winners. With their deep pockets, they were able to continue to open new shops and invest in the business during the crisis.” In The Economist.
Chinese models hit runways around the globe – “When the willowy Liu Wen stepped onto the runway… she finally began to see a parade of models who looked increasingly like her: This fall, major design houses featured a number of Chinese models in fashion weeks as part of a bid by the firms to boost their sales in China.” Pe CNN.
Rene Gruau: a new look at the influential Dior illustrator – “René Gruau was an Italian-born illustrator who worked at the front line of high fashion for more than 60 years. Next month his sketches for the House of Dior will reach a new audience at an exhibition in his name. To some, it will be a reminder of what the brush, pen and ink achieved before the camera took over.” In The Telegraph.
Why can’t middle aged women have long hair? - “At a certain age, cutting your hair is considered the appropriate thing to do, as if being shorn is a way of releasing oneself from the locks of the past.” E un articol care va va placea tare, tare mult… Pe NY Times.
Designer labels go pint size – “Gucci, Fendi and Stella McCartney are among the latest designers to add luxury children’s collections to their company’s stable, a small step for high-end fashion but among the first signs of growth since the recession.” Pe NY Times.
Pop-up mobile for luxury retail - “One of the inherent values of the mobile medium for marketers is the very personal nature of the smartphone device itself… This creates a plethora of unique engagement opportunities for luxury brands… [to] re-create the feeling of uniqueness historically inherent in shoppers’ experience with the brand.” Pe Mobiluxe.
The 3 billion dollar woman – “Forget advertising in glossy magazines, gushing celebrity endorsements or the creation of an exclusive, hush-hush cult of desirability. The latest and greatest marketing technique is simple, in theory: get Michelle Obama to wear your clothes.” In The Independent.
Tamara Mellon interview: for services to shoes – “Tamara Mellon’s life has always sounded as if it were modelled on a schlocky TV mini-series, and today’s episode is no exception. It’s Thursday and we’re in the rococo lobby of the Ritz, the morning after Mellon, president of the Jimmy Choo fashion house, has received her OBE at Buckingham Palace.” In The Telegraph.
Styles – and strategy – that defy conventions - “With 25 employees and about $5 million in annual revenue, the designer sells her brand, Zero + Maria Cornejo, to about 85 retailers around the world, including Harvey Nichols in London, Ikram in Chicago and Joyce in Hong Kong, as well as in her own three stores in New York and Los Angeles. She is frequently among the A-list designers in Michelle Obama’s wardrobe.” In Wall Street Journal.
Your closet needs an editor – “Yet proclaim they do, citing the ladylike new-New-Look Prada and Louis Vuitton, who riffed Christian Dior and Douglas Sirk’s cinched silhouette like they were doing wardrobe on a Rodgers & Hammerstein musical. Dresses and skirts so Fifties retrograde, all that was missing was the poodle.” In Montreal Gazette.
The Fashion conservatives - “‘The notion that a contemporary woman must look mannish in order to be taken seriously is frankly dismaying,’ Ms. Wintour chided. ‘I do think Americans have moved on from the power suit mentality. Political campaigns that do not recognize this are making a serious misjudgment.’” In NY Times.
Limited brands’ international promise – “A 1,000-square-foot Victoria’s Secret travel store in a Brazilian airport, which just sells accessories and beauty products, opened a little more than a year ago. Since then, it’s done about $10 million in sales, or $10,000 per square foot.” In Market Watch.
Does the shoe fit? – “The much heralded return of the trouser has, it seems, proffered up a problem for us women, between seasons. Namely, what should one wear on one’s feet?” Pe Wall Street Journal.
Macy’s get fast fashion - “Any retailer on earth would just about die to create the kind of consumer craze that takes place when H & M introduces a discount designer collaboration… the latest store to delve into fast fashion is a bit unexpected in that it is the classically mainstream Macy’s.” In NY Times.
Ballets Russes: emotional and passionate – “The Ikat-weave costumes, bleeding the colors of Russian folklore across the surface; the tiny pink ballet slipper of the dancer Tamara Karsavina; the sophisticated Parisian exoticism of Paul Poiret; and the disconcerting, Cubist creations by are Diaghilev’s epitaph — and they make a splendid display at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum.” In NY Times.
